Surveying the truffle white tuna appetizer at Sushi Ko, it's hard to imagine that the fragrant oil won't overwhelm the delicate fish. The slices are artistically plated, strewn with tiny white dots ...

My favorite sushi has grill marks. At Sushi-Ko in Glover Park, toro aburi -- which translates as seared fatty tuna -- begins with a slab of supple belly of blue fin or big eye tuna. With four quick ...